body.mind.spirit
THE PILGRIM
THE PILGRIM
On the 24th September and over three weeks later than I planned I packed my back pack and said "right I'm off now", I had no idea how long I would be gone. I walked to the corner of the street and back again. Ten minutes later I walked back in the front door with the greeting" hi I’m back", the backpack was too heavy and I needed to lighten my load. Taking half the clothing out, well all the shirts leaving me with just one change of clothes, I set off again about an hour later. After walking halfway to the bus station I found my legs buckling, so I crawled back to my mum's and lightened my load a bit more, this time it was the tins of beans and the rest of the food I took out. I had to feed myself as I went and not carry a larder with me.
It made more sense to start in the morning so I got a lift to the bus station the next day. My first port of call was to be Salisbury, a place I had stopped at a couple of months earlier, It was a cold night on that occasion and I was fortunate enough to meet a heroine addict begging on the streets. He lent me a
Blanket and we slept under a railway arch by a fire, I was very grateful the next morning when I saw the frost on the roofs. I lent him three pounds the next day to buy his pitch back as someone was using it, he needed his fix and got back to begging as soon as he could. The next day sat on the bus I did wonder if I would see him again in Salisbury. I arrived at 1:30 PM, the cathedral was very pleasant and I spent a couple of hours looking around. The west front was exquisite with all the saints looking down on me as I sat on the grass outside; it was at this point that I heard a little lad ask his dad “are they still building it”. I had a little chuckle to myself, why is it, when the Church of England is one of the richest landowners in this country that half the cathedrals have scaffolding around them. On the north side in the grounds there is a nice statue by Elizabeth Fring 1981 called Walking Madonna, well worth looking at a nice piece of work.
5:50 PM and on to the bus station and Winchester, would I be in time to camp before dark? The answer to that one was no, I found the cathedral very easy to find but a place to put a tent in the dark would take me about three hours and it did. I put up my tent in a nature reserve in the end; there was a full moon so I had some light and a frost on the ground. My sleeping bag was very welcome, when I woke up I was cold. I received a dirty look from a man who walked past my tent, he sat next to a pond 50 yards away and after a short time I had worked out he was sketching. I could not resist and I had to have a look at his work it was good and we talked for about an hour. It was while he was telling me about how he used to go hiking that it dawned on me why I was cold that night, I had no ground sheet I would get one the first chance I had. It turned out he was the warden of the nature reserve I was camping in, he was a mine of information about the pilgrims way. A walk from Winchester to Canterbury, I was going to use public transport as much as possible so I didn’t use the pilgrim’s way this time.
It Did not take me long to reach the cathedral, and I warmed to Winchester very quickly in the late September sun feeling good that god had allowed me to do this pilgrimage. And as my intention was to pray in every place I visited, I was looking forward to entering the cathedral so I entered the shop first to buy postcards and a badge for my hat then straight into the cathedral. Once inside I asked the lady on the door if I could leave my luggage just inside the door? I was told no, so I asked if I had to pay to enter I was a pilgrim and my intention was only to light candles and pray, I was told I would have to pay so I left. I had been in Winchester cathedral many times before so didn't worry too much at not getting in.
Boarding a bus at 1:45 PM heading for Chichester I had to change my bus at South sea Portsmouth not a place I planned to stop, while waiting for my next bus I decided to have a walk. Round the corner from the bus stop I found a breath of fresh air, a big red brick church looking building not what I expected, it was a Roman Catholic Cathedral, Saint Johns. When I entered I was very impressed, the interior was clean and bright adorned with bright painted statues, I would recommend a visit to this lovely building, and even the atmosphere inside was warm and friendly. I was the only person in the cathedral and I thought it was lost from the trappings of tourism, if more people were to visit they would have to charge on the door and make lots of money. I lit four candles said my prayers and left to catch the 5:00 PM bus to Chichester.
I knew it would be dark before I reached my stop and was pleased when the bus pulled up right outside the 900 year old Cathedral all I had to do was find a place to camp. I walked toward the market cross and past the shops, what a lovely sleepy place. I did pass a young couple walking into the town centre, the young lady said to her boyfriend look at that poor man, walking with his worldly possessions on his back, poor thing. It was only a passing comment from a stranger but still nice to think some one could show compassion for a stranger. A piece of grass in the car park at the back of the council offices was where I camped, no one knew I had been there. Up early the next day and off to the Cathedral, I entered and became aware that there was going to be a service. Quietly I started looking around and came across an exhibition of paintings by an artist by the name of John Reilly; they were wonderful I got so engrossed that I forgot about the service. The Cathedral came alive as the service started it was a school service, and the sound of the children singing added to the exhibition. I enjoyed the service and just swam in the whole atmosphere; it was so good to see this house of god being used for worship. Thank you Chichester, the experience will live in my heart for a long time.
On with my journey and 10 miles down the road to Arundel, my next stop, it was not long before my heart jumped as I spotted the Cathedral and what a sight rising on the sky line, French, I thought it has to be French in design. I walked up the hill in the high street watching the tourists milling in and out of the shops I expected the Cathedral to be very busy but to my surprise it was quiet. French Gothic of about 1400 in design and only took three years to build, what a grand job the workmen did, I think they must have been on piece work or had a promise of a very large bonus at the end of the job. It was strange to learn that the architect was Joseph Hansom inventor of the Hansom Cab, and it was 1873 when it was finished, no entrance fee is charged so it must be a Roman Catholic Cathedral. I lit four candles and left. I popped into a camping shop and got myself a foam bedroll, no more cold nights.
When I had walked back down the hill to the river I took time out to feed the swans on the river, there must have been 30 of them plus ducks, a very pleasant way to pass the time when your waiting for a bus.
12:27 PM and on my way to Lewes, I had to get a bus to Brighton first so I decided to walk from there it was only about ten miles and I was on no tight time table so who's worried what time I got there, not me. About 4:00 PM I found I was getting hot so I stopped on some grass made a cup of tea and watched the cars go by, all the drivers seemed so stressed and here I was just relaxing on the side of the road. I felt like shouting at them chill relax what's the hurry, but then they would have thought I was mad. Picking up my gear I set off again when a mile up the road I meet a man selling the big issue outside a university. We talked awhile and it turned out he had travelled across America on fright trains and was now living in an old ambulance, What a book he could write, he may do it one day. It was dark when I got to Lewes and I was tired and hungry so I found a chip shop. Fish and chips was the order of the day, well I was near the seaside and its hard cooking on a camping stove that you put little tablets in and set light to. Camping in a park the next day I got a train to Battle, there was no Cathedral in Lewes just an Abbey, and that was in ruins. Still they had great fish and chips, I was arriving too late for the rumble at Hastings but hey never mind, I don’t like violence anyway. I prayed for the people that died at the Battle of Hastings 1066, better late then never that's what I say, looked about, decided there would have been no town or Abbey if the battle had not taken place, there would be nothing for the tourist to look at. I wondered what the place would look like now, I boarded a train and went on too Canterbury, Battle was to tourist orientated for me.
35 miles later I was there, the centre of the church of England, Canterbury Cathedral had to be my first stop before I looked for some where to sleep. I found it in no time at all, the atmosphere was good in the streets and I had to take as much in as possible. I must have walked around for hours before I wanted to set up camp, the cobbled street, the city wall, beggars and this massive Cathedral I had died and gone to heaven. I even had chicken and chips in the high street, By time I made camp it was dark and cold but I did not give a hoot and besides that I had learned to put my tent up in the dark climb in it and go to sleep. Good night, god bless, see you in the morning.
In the morning I found I had made a mistake, not a big one just the sun was already up, I had put my tent the wrong side of the hedge. Its nice to let the sun hit your tent when it rises as it warms you and dries the tent and the rest of your kit. That day was spent talking to the local homeless, walking around Canterbury, even spent time carving my walking stick, I started carving it in Swindon. I did find a new campsite which I used for the next three days, an old greyhound site it was derelict and it had lots of dead wood, campfires and stargazing became the order of the night.
The Saturday evening I went to the spiritualist church, I was standing out like a sore thumb, and not very welcome, churches are all very clicky, its a shame if your not seen in a church week after week you are viewed as a outsider. The lady at the door told me she had a headache, so I gave her some hands on healing, and told her that her head would be better by the end of the service. Once inside I was sat right in the middle of the congregation, and everybody seemed to be looking at me as if to say what's that tramp doing here. The last message from the medium was aimed at me, she told me I had an Indian guide with a wolf and me, I was to travel many miles across the country, and she wished me well on my journey. After the service the lady with the bad head came up to me and told me her headache had gone. I did get the impression that the people in the church saw me in a different light after the message from the medium, I was even offered a cup of tea, but declined as I had to put up my tent. I spent most of the next two days carving my walking stick by the river, this was very good for me, as everyone I had met in the town seemed to come by and say hello. One chap Andréa's, he was from Portugal and made pipes, selling them on the streets wherever he was, he got a tin can out of the bin cut off the top and used it as a cup when I made a cuppa one afternoon. Its surprising how inventive people can be, He had been in America for five years as a pipe maker. He had even lived on an Indian reservation, in Pipestone, making pipes the Red Indian way.
I made more than one cup of tea for homeless people on my trip. Three days later I had finished my walking stick. By the way my Indian guides name is running water, and the wolf is named swift, time to visit the Cathedral, too late that day I would have to go in the morning, Chinese curry tonight yes I do like my food.
The next morning I found a flower shop and got a single red rose, something I had decided to get when I first set of. I was very excited walking up the High street past the pilgrim’s hospital, Up the road a bit more and around the corner into Mercury Street. Then I saw Christ Church Gate, past the line of tourist and up to the gate where a young man jumped out and asked, “are you a pilgrim”, “ yes” I said, “this way pilgrims don’t have to pay” was the response. And he led me past the paying booth into the Cathedral grounds. When I entered the Cathedral I was very moved excited and on a mission, I was at the Martyrdom Transept in no time then deeper into the Cathedral until I reached the site of Thomas of Beckets Tomb, now marked out by an inscription in brass and a burning candle.
I stepped over the rope and laid the rose next to the candle then found a quiet place and prayed for all involved in the martyrdom of Thomas Becket including the four assassins. I was moved and sat and listened to the silence well 50 to 60 tourists walked around me, it was breath taking I did cry and was moved even when I left Canterbury. The next day I was awake at 5am packed and ready for Holy Communion, and at the Cathedral by 7am. I did get there too early and the guard on the gate would not let me in with my rucksack on my back. I asked why and he said it was for security, I could be a terrorist bomber, o k I will let you look inside, no I don’t want to and your not bringing it in. I left it outside, after protesting to this bloody jobs worth for some time, I even protested to his boss when I came out, but hey this was a tramp protesting, just a low life, normally invisible. The day before tourists were milling about with bags on their backs including me, I didn't see anyone challenged by the security officers. My bag stayed by the side of the security office, which was mad, if I had been a bomber with a bomb, it would have taken out the office,
After communion I went to the park to buy a pipe from Andréa's for my guardian angel in Yorkshire, it was made with wood from an orange tree, orange being the wood not the colour of the tree, then I got a train to Rochester.
Rochester was a bit of an anticlimax after Canterbury but all right. There was a service taking part, so I looked around, in the crypt I found a sink so I topped up my water bottles, I was just coming up from the crypt to be greeted by a member of the clergy. I spoke to him, but he was in such a hurry to get away from me, he passed me to someone else, I got the impression he was in a hurry, perhaps to have his breakfast he, must have been hungry. I wanted to talk about god but he was not having it, neither was his colleague he passed me to. I did think it was a shame that in the house of god there is never any clergy to speak on god’s behalf. When you go to a service they always rush off, they are the keepers of these houses, don’t they take a pride in their work and want to show people god at work.
This is why the church are empty the human contact has gone and priests are too wrapped up in their own importance. There I've had my say and on to Chelmsford, but first in and out of London as fast as I can I was afraid that I might get stuck there over night. From Victoria railway station I walked, as the tube trains were on strike Westminster Cathedral was my first stop, my first impression, Turn again Dick Whittington the streets are paved with homeless. There was a lot outside the Cathedral, homeless sleeping crying begging it looked like a sad place to be. I went inside what to me looked like a railway station, and was pleasantly surprised and very content when I saw how many people were inside, there was a service in progress and I could tell I was in a Catholic Cathedral. There seemed to be a cleaning of the ceiling in progress and I must return one day to see how it came out, I did pray then left for Westminster Abbey.
Sorry this is a biggy. 6 pound 50 pence to get in, as a pilgrim I had to pay to enter god’s house to pray. I'm sorry but did not Jesus Christ throw out the moneylenders from the temple? Should we have gift shops in Cathedrals? In I went, would I find god inside? I found tombs of kings and queens and a chair used for coronations just one big museum. They queue to get in but how many of the thousands of tourists that go through the Cathedral doors have god in their hearts? Some, not all, well in the Cathedral I heard a prayer read out, it came over the speakers and I bowed my head so did a lot of the visitors. While praying I became aware of people moving around and raised my head a little they’re were people walking around. I left not long after the prayer had finished and was stopped by a nun outside; she was very bubbly and full of life. She asked me if I had found god in there? I said "no just a big museum and no respect", I told her about the people walking about during the praying, she said they were most probable foreign and did not know what was going on.
My response was if you were walking along, and you see a lot of people stood still with their heads bowed; you would know straight away what was going on. We were in the house of god, so it would be plain to a half wit what was going on, the conversation ended, I did feel a bit sorry for her, she did seem to enjoy her job, and put out by my comments.
Trafalgar Square next, where I would feed the pigeons, that to me is London, in the 60s it was what Trafalgar Square was about tourists with pigeons on their heads having their photos taken. Once there I noticed signs saying do not feed the pigeons come on pigeon crap does wash off and the pigeons were there before the buildings. I sat on a bench and had some bread and cheese; I did drop a lot of crumbs, big crumbs at that. And the pigeons soon gobbled them up, I did get dirty looks from a man sat next to me, so I said “I cant help it I am a messy eater”. Covent garden next then on to St Paul's, and a quick walk around the crypt, that's were the gift shop is. I did not go in the cathedral this time, as it was closed being made ready for a concert, it was a shame as I have always wanted to look around inside. On to Liverpool Street and my train I was getting tired.
It was getting dark when I got to Chelmsford as I walked to the Cathedral I was passed by a lady who smiled at me I thought what a lovely place, and it was. I got to the Cathedral and pop music was coming out of the cathedral, sitting on the ground I listened moved by the singing with tears in my eyes when the lady that had smiled at me came out. Her name was Rachel and her husband was on the stage playing a guitar, they were friends of the lead singer Nicky Rogers who writes all her own music. She said that there was a concert that night and then went back in to find out the time of the concert.
By now Nicky had stopped singing and the two girls, (I know they were only girls I’m oldish) Nicky came out and told me the concert was at 8pm and would I like to come along. I said I would try and she gave me a signed copy of her C.D. called Colour Scheme. I trotted off with my limp to get some food, chips in hand I was just walking past this man when he called me over, and his name was John. We talked, making a phone call he fixed me up with a bed in a hostel round the corner, I could wash my clothes there and get a shower and a bed for the night, my luck was in. We sat talking when a group of scagg heads came up. They started badgering me for the chips I was eating. I gave them to this lad, and then made my way to the Cathedral. I entered said hello and made a beeline to the back, I did know I looked like a tramp and thought if I was at the back I would not get in the way, and no one would notice me.
No chance the place filled very quickly and I was trapped with no escape a sea of people with god on their minds. What a night the music was great and so was the bishop, he did an escape routine, out of a straight jacket, the Cathedral rocked that night it was full, God was with the people of Chelmsford and they were alive. Nicky was excellent and I would recommend her C.D. to anyone thanks you for a great night and god bless you all. I spoke to the girls and their lads on the way out and made my way to the hostel.
The hostel was a no go; I could not find it so I camped in a park, just by a railway arch. It rained and I did not care I was happy, The next day I sat in the park with my foot in the boating lake it was still very painful. A young lad came up and started talking to me, we talked for some time. And he told me he wanted to be a nomad when he was grew up. It must have seemed like a good idea to him but I did point out a lot of bad point, and it was not going to be as easy as he thought, after we had talked for some time I made my way to the Cathedral. My visit to the Cathedral was good, I had my picture taken with a school party outside the Cathedral, I even let one little lad hold my walking stick, did my picture get pinned on a wall in a class room some where? God is alive in Chelmsford and I will go back one day, well done to the people that live there and thank you.
Next on the bus to Colchester when I got there I asked a woman where the Cathedral was. And she told me there was no Cathedral just an Abbey and that was in ruins so I got on the bus and went to Bury Saint Edmunds, once there I camped at the side of the football ground got an Indian curry and slept well. The next day when walking in the Abbey grounds a lady came up to me, she put a pound in my hand saying “get yourself a coffee its cold”. I did and sat in the sun watching the squirrels whilst I drank it well done that lady, and god bless you. The Cathedral was good and was still being built they were busy building the tower. Inside there was an exhibition on and I did like the artist work she was a nice lady I can't remember her name never mind.
I arrived at Ely that's known as the ship of the fen you can tell why when you see it standing proud on the horizon, After looking about the town I made my way to the river and put up my tent, in a field with cowpats. Very brave of me I’m frightened of anything bigger than me, then got some firewood, pot noodle stew was the order of the day and I was looking forward to it. Set up for the night, then I made my way to the phone box. I had to let my guardian angel know I was safe I did every night, on my return it was dark but that was alright I had every thing ready lit my fire and got a cup of tea on first. Water boiled and I made my tea then I heard a noise, oh no cows, all around me panic, what do I do run or what. I know I’ll make my stew. I poured the pot noodle in the water, now open the stew tin, still panic. Tin opener in hand opening stew still panic, I thought what if they can read, its beef stew panic, that’s OK, throw the tin in the river, I ate cold stew crouched in the front of my tent, the cows went away eventually.
I went to sleep, what a night, I can’t help it, the cows were bigger than me. I did get the can out of the river, as I don't leave any rubbish about. Ely was good I did meet some nice people one market trader gave me a badge for my hat, I have got 19 now. The Cathedral was being decked out for harvest festival, and looked very nice with all the produce across the front.
Next I had a cup of coffee outside a cafe, the reason I remembered it, was because ten percent of the taking, from the cafe, got donated to charity. A good way to help others and I did love the idea of a little bit of the cost going to a good cause
On to Peterborough and into hell, the Cathedral was o.k. But still smelt of smoke from a fire, which had done a lot of damage and was being put right. I was in time for even song and about four or five visitors sat down, we all walked out before the end. As you could not hear what was going on. Outside the people were rushing about shopping, no one was interested in much except spending. I went back to the bus station, walking past some yobs; one of them spat on the ground then the one next to him did the same. I thought, no respect, then two men started watching me, they were very interested in me and I could tell they were pickpockets, this was confirmed by the lady in the paper stand, she told me that drugies hung about the bus station.
I brought a cup of tea from her, but didn't take my eyes off them, they were looking for a victim and I was not going to be it. Goodbye Peterborough I hope the people wake up soon and god goes back, I will pray for you. I left, Lincoln was my next stop and I soon found a place for the night, on some wasteland. The next day the Cathedral was great, sat outside for about five hours, I talked to a work man it was him that told me about homeless people selling cobblestones to the tourists, there's no stopping some people. John was a homeless man I met there, he loved the Cathedral, was an alcoholic and had been in side, on and off. He did tell me when I was talking to him that he was trying to get off the drink, I asked him if he had got any one to help him in the cathedral, he told me no one took much notice of him in there.
Ask god to help next time you’re in their, go straight to the top, next time you’re in the Cathedral, just do it and see what happens. I had a job to get away from him after that and he said he would ask next time he was inside the Cathedral. A friend once told me that when you ask god for help he answered through a friend. I do hope John got the help he needed, It was strange hugging a complete stranger but he had become quite emotional by the time I left him god bless him.
On To York, what a lovely railway station, I arrived late and stayed up later 2 AM before I pitched my tent by some gravestones followed by a short night. The graves were victims of the plague, they had to be buried outside the city walls, I suppose it was nice for them to have some company for a change. The next day I was woken by some work men banging and crashing, they were putting up scaffolding on a shop opposite were I was camped. York is wonderful I met a lot of homeless people there, it has two hostels and a day centre that I was told about, very good. I came across a young girl and a bloke; Mick was his name he was a gypsy so he said, I did not know the girl’s name. She had been living on the streets and sleeping in the hospital grounds with her boy friend, for years, he was a drug user, heroin. She said he had over dosed and died, now she was on her own, still grieving and on the streets. I did see her walking in the opposite direction with her blanket later that night, all I could do was pray for her.
I had arranged to meet my guardian angle but had to do my praying first, so I entered the Cathedral and walked and prayed, lit my four candles all in about two hours before I went outside. By the way the four candles were lit for my brother, my sister, my dad, and one for the world and god just thought I would let you know. My guardian angle turned up on time, she crept up behind me and took me by surprise, we hugged, it felt good, everyone should hug more. She is my girlfriend Cherry, I was glad to see her and I dragged her into the Cathedral straightaway I needed to share it with her. We had a good day in York and must have walked around more than once, it was strange a lot of the homeless people I had met the night before came up to say hello, it was as if we had know them for years. Then back to Cherry's and a hot bath, and a bed not a sleeping bag. I will just add if you have ten spire minuts can you say a prayer for the homeless
STEFAN and CHERRY
Love and Light God Bless
STEFAN
On the 24th September and over three weeks later than I planned I packed my back pack and said "right I'm off now", I had no idea how long I would be gone. I walked to the corner of the street and back again. Ten minutes later I walked back in the front door with the greeting" hi I’m back", the backpack was too heavy and I needed to lighten my load. Taking half the clothing out, well all the shirts leaving me with just one change of clothes, I set off again about an hour later. After walking halfway to the bus station I found my legs buckling, so I crawled back to my mum's and lightened my load a bit more, this time it was the tins of beans and the rest of the food I took out. I had to feed myself as I went and not carry a larder with me.
It made more sense to start in the morning so I got a lift to the bus station the next day. My first port of call was to be Salisbury, a place I had stopped at a couple of months earlier, It was a cold night on that occasion and I was fortunate enough to meet a heroine addict begging on the streets. He lent me a
Blanket and we slept under a railway arch by a fire, I was very grateful the next morning when I saw the frost on the roofs. I lent him three pounds the next day to buy his pitch back as someone was using it, he needed his fix and got back to begging as soon as he could. The next day sat on the bus I did wonder if I would see him again in Salisbury. I arrived at 1:30 PM, the cathedral was very pleasant and I spent a couple of hours looking around. The west front was exquisite with all the saints looking down on me as I sat on the grass outside; it was at this point that I heard a little lad ask his dad “are they still building it”. I had a little chuckle to myself, why is it, when the Church of England is one of the richest landowners in this country that half the cathedrals have scaffolding around them. On the north side in the grounds there is a nice statue by Elizabeth Fring 1981 called Walking Madonna, well worth looking at a nice piece of work.
5:50 PM and on to the bus station and Winchester, would I be in time to camp before dark? The answer to that one was no, I found the cathedral very easy to find but a place to put a tent in the dark would take me about three hours and it did. I put up my tent in a nature reserve in the end; there was a full moon so I had some light and a frost on the ground. My sleeping bag was very welcome, when I woke up I was cold. I received a dirty look from a man who walked past my tent, he sat next to a pond 50 yards away and after a short time I had worked out he was sketching. I could not resist and I had to have a look at his work it was good and we talked for about an hour. It was while he was telling me about how he used to go hiking that it dawned on me why I was cold that night, I had no ground sheet I would get one the first chance I had. It turned out he was the warden of the nature reserve I was camping in, he was a mine of information about the pilgrims way. A walk from Winchester to Canterbury, I was going to use public transport as much as possible so I didn’t use the pilgrim’s way this time.
It Did not take me long to reach the cathedral, and I warmed to Winchester very quickly in the late September sun feeling good that god had allowed me to do this pilgrimage. And as my intention was to pray in every place I visited, I was looking forward to entering the cathedral so I entered the shop first to buy postcards and a badge for my hat then straight into the cathedral. Once inside I asked the lady on the door if I could leave my luggage just inside the door? I was told no, so I asked if I had to pay to enter I was a pilgrim and my intention was only to light candles and pray, I was told I would have to pay so I left. I had been in Winchester cathedral many times before so didn't worry too much at not getting in.
Boarding a bus at 1:45 PM heading for Chichester I had to change my bus at South sea Portsmouth not a place I planned to stop, while waiting for my next bus I decided to have a walk. Round the corner from the bus stop I found a breath of fresh air, a big red brick church looking building not what I expected, it was a Roman Catholic Cathedral, Saint Johns. When I entered I was very impressed, the interior was clean and bright adorned with bright painted statues, I would recommend a visit to this lovely building, and even the atmosphere inside was warm and friendly. I was the only person in the cathedral and I thought it was lost from the trappings of tourism, if more people were to visit they would have to charge on the door and make lots of money. I lit four candles said my prayers and left to catch the 5:00 PM bus to Chichester.
I knew it would be dark before I reached my stop and was pleased when the bus pulled up right outside the 900 year old Cathedral all I had to do was find a place to camp. I walked toward the market cross and past the shops, what a lovely sleepy place. I did pass a young couple walking into the town centre, the young lady said to her boyfriend look at that poor man, walking with his worldly possessions on his back, poor thing. It was only a passing comment from a stranger but still nice to think some one could show compassion for a stranger. A piece of grass in the car park at the back of the council offices was where I camped, no one knew I had been there. Up early the next day and off to the Cathedral, I entered and became aware that there was going to be a service. Quietly I started looking around and came across an exhibition of paintings by an artist by the name of John Reilly; they were wonderful I got so engrossed that I forgot about the service. The Cathedral came alive as the service started it was a school service, and the sound of the children singing added to the exhibition. I enjoyed the service and just swam in the whole atmosphere; it was so good to see this house of god being used for worship. Thank you Chichester, the experience will live in my heart for a long time.
On with my journey and 10 miles down the road to Arundel, my next stop, it was not long before my heart jumped as I spotted the Cathedral and what a sight rising on the sky line, French, I thought it has to be French in design. I walked up the hill in the high street watching the tourists milling in and out of the shops I expected the Cathedral to be very busy but to my surprise it was quiet. French Gothic of about 1400 in design and only took three years to build, what a grand job the workmen did, I think they must have been on piece work or had a promise of a very large bonus at the end of the job. It was strange to learn that the architect was Joseph Hansom inventor of the Hansom Cab, and it was 1873 when it was finished, no entrance fee is charged so it must be a Roman Catholic Cathedral. I lit four candles and left. I popped into a camping shop and got myself a foam bedroll, no more cold nights.
When I had walked back down the hill to the river I took time out to feed the swans on the river, there must have been 30 of them plus ducks, a very pleasant way to pass the time when your waiting for a bus.
12:27 PM and on my way to Lewes, I had to get a bus to Brighton first so I decided to walk from there it was only about ten miles and I was on no tight time table so who's worried what time I got there, not me. About 4:00 PM I found I was getting hot so I stopped on some grass made a cup of tea and watched the cars go by, all the drivers seemed so stressed and here I was just relaxing on the side of the road. I felt like shouting at them chill relax what's the hurry, but then they would have thought I was mad. Picking up my gear I set off again when a mile up the road I meet a man selling the big issue outside a university. We talked awhile and it turned out he had travelled across America on fright trains and was now living in an old ambulance, What a book he could write, he may do it one day. It was dark when I got to Lewes and I was tired and hungry so I found a chip shop. Fish and chips was the order of the day, well I was near the seaside and its hard cooking on a camping stove that you put little tablets in and set light to. Camping in a park the next day I got a train to Battle, there was no Cathedral in Lewes just an Abbey, and that was in ruins. Still they had great fish and chips, I was arriving too late for the rumble at Hastings but hey never mind, I don’t like violence anyway. I prayed for the people that died at the Battle of Hastings 1066, better late then never that's what I say, looked about, decided there would have been no town or Abbey if the battle had not taken place, there would be nothing for the tourist to look at. I wondered what the place would look like now, I boarded a train and went on too Canterbury, Battle was to tourist orientated for me.
35 miles later I was there, the centre of the church of England, Canterbury Cathedral had to be my first stop before I looked for some where to sleep. I found it in no time at all, the atmosphere was good in the streets and I had to take as much in as possible. I must have walked around for hours before I wanted to set up camp, the cobbled street, the city wall, beggars and this massive Cathedral I had died and gone to heaven. I even had chicken and chips in the high street, By time I made camp it was dark and cold but I did not give a hoot and besides that I had learned to put my tent up in the dark climb in it and go to sleep. Good night, god bless, see you in the morning.
In the morning I found I had made a mistake, not a big one just the sun was already up, I had put my tent the wrong side of the hedge. Its nice to let the sun hit your tent when it rises as it warms you and dries the tent and the rest of your kit. That day was spent talking to the local homeless, walking around Canterbury, even spent time carving my walking stick, I started carving it in Swindon. I did find a new campsite which I used for the next three days, an old greyhound site it was derelict and it had lots of dead wood, campfires and stargazing became the order of the night.
The Saturday evening I went to the spiritualist church, I was standing out like a sore thumb, and not very welcome, churches are all very clicky, its a shame if your not seen in a church week after week you are viewed as a outsider. The lady at the door told me she had a headache, so I gave her some hands on healing, and told her that her head would be better by the end of the service. Once inside I was sat right in the middle of the congregation, and everybody seemed to be looking at me as if to say what's that tramp doing here. The last message from the medium was aimed at me, she told me I had an Indian guide with a wolf and me, I was to travel many miles across the country, and she wished me well on my journey. After the service the lady with the bad head came up to me and told me her headache had gone. I did get the impression that the people in the church saw me in a different light after the message from the medium, I was even offered a cup of tea, but declined as I had to put up my tent. I spent most of the next two days carving my walking stick by the river, this was very good for me, as everyone I had met in the town seemed to come by and say hello. One chap Andréa's, he was from Portugal and made pipes, selling them on the streets wherever he was, he got a tin can out of the bin cut off the top and used it as a cup when I made a cuppa one afternoon. Its surprising how inventive people can be, He had been in America for five years as a pipe maker. He had even lived on an Indian reservation, in Pipestone, making pipes the Red Indian way.
I made more than one cup of tea for homeless people on my trip. Three days later I had finished my walking stick. By the way my Indian guides name is running water, and the wolf is named swift, time to visit the Cathedral, too late that day I would have to go in the morning, Chinese curry tonight yes I do like my food.
The next morning I found a flower shop and got a single red rose, something I had decided to get when I first set of. I was very excited walking up the High street past the pilgrim’s hospital, Up the road a bit more and around the corner into Mercury Street. Then I saw Christ Church Gate, past the line of tourist and up to the gate where a young man jumped out and asked, “are you a pilgrim”, “ yes” I said, “this way pilgrims don’t have to pay” was the response. And he led me past the paying booth into the Cathedral grounds. When I entered the Cathedral I was very moved excited and on a mission, I was at the Martyrdom Transept in no time then deeper into the Cathedral until I reached the site of Thomas of Beckets Tomb, now marked out by an inscription in brass and a burning candle.
I stepped over the rope and laid the rose next to the candle then found a quiet place and prayed for all involved in the martyrdom of Thomas Becket including the four assassins. I was moved and sat and listened to the silence well 50 to 60 tourists walked around me, it was breath taking I did cry and was moved even when I left Canterbury. The next day I was awake at 5am packed and ready for Holy Communion, and at the Cathedral by 7am. I did get there too early and the guard on the gate would not let me in with my rucksack on my back. I asked why and he said it was for security, I could be a terrorist bomber, o k I will let you look inside, no I don’t want to and your not bringing it in. I left it outside, after protesting to this bloody jobs worth for some time, I even protested to his boss when I came out, but hey this was a tramp protesting, just a low life, normally invisible. The day before tourists were milling about with bags on their backs including me, I didn't see anyone challenged by the security officers. My bag stayed by the side of the security office, which was mad, if I had been a bomber with a bomb, it would have taken out the office,
After communion I went to the park to buy a pipe from Andréa's for my guardian angel in Yorkshire, it was made with wood from an orange tree, orange being the wood not the colour of the tree, then I got a train to Rochester.
Rochester was a bit of an anticlimax after Canterbury but all right. There was a service taking part, so I looked around, in the crypt I found a sink so I topped up my water bottles, I was just coming up from the crypt to be greeted by a member of the clergy. I spoke to him, but he was in such a hurry to get away from me, he passed me to someone else, I got the impression he was in a hurry, perhaps to have his breakfast he, must have been hungry. I wanted to talk about god but he was not having it, neither was his colleague he passed me to. I did think it was a shame that in the house of god there is never any clergy to speak on god’s behalf. When you go to a service they always rush off, they are the keepers of these houses, don’t they take a pride in their work and want to show people god at work.
This is why the church are empty the human contact has gone and priests are too wrapped up in their own importance. There I've had my say and on to Chelmsford, but first in and out of London as fast as I can I was afraid that I might get stuck there over night. From Victoria railway station I walked, as the tube trains were on strike Westminster Cathedral was my first stop, my first impression, Turn again Dick Whittington the streets are paved with homeless. There was a lot outside the Cathedral, homeless sleeping crying begging it looked like a sad place to be. I went inside what to me looked like a railway station, and was pleasantly surprised and very content when I saw how many people were inside, there was a service in progress and I could tell I was in a Catholic Cathedral. There seemed to be a cleaning of the ceiling in progress and I must return one day to see how it came out, I did pray then left for Westminster Abbey.
Sorry this is a biggy. 6 pound 50 pence to get in, as a pilgrim I had to pay to enter god’s house to pray. I'm sorry but did not Jesus Christ throw out the moneylenders from the temple? Should we have gift shops in Cathedrals? In I went, would I find god inside? I found tombs of kings and queens and a chair used for coronations just one big museum. They queue to get in but how many of the thousands of tourists that go through the Cathedral doors have god in their hearts? Some, not all, well in the Cathedral I heard a prayer read out, it came over the speakers and I bowed my head so did a lot of the visitors. While praying I became aware of people moving around and raised my head a little they’re were people walking around. I left not long after the prayer had finished and was stopped by a nun outside; she was very bubbly and full of life. She asked me if I had found god in there? I said "no just a big museum and no respect", I told her about the people walking about during the praying, she said they were most probable foreign and did not know what was going on.
My response was if you were walking along, and you see a lot of people stood still with their heads bowed; you would know straight away what was going on. We were in the house of god, so it would be plain to a half wit what was going on, the conversation ended, I did feel a bit sorry for her, she did seem to enjoy her job, and put out by my comments.
Trafalgar Square next, where I would feed the pigeons, that to me is London, in the 60s it was what Trafalgar Square was about tourists with pigeons on their heads having their photos taken. Once there I noticed signs saying do not feed the pigeons come on pigeon crap does wash off and the pigeons were there before the buildings. I sat on a bench and had some bread and cheese; I did drop a lot of crumbs, big crumbs at that. And the pigeons soon gobbled them up, I did get dirty looks from a man sat next to me, so I said “I cant help it I am a messy eater”. Covent garden next then on to St Paul's, and a quick walk around the crypt, that's were the gift shop is. I did not go in the cathedral this time, as it was closed being made ready for a concert, it was a shame as I have always wanted to look around inside. On to Liverpool Street and my train I was getting tired.
It was getting dark when I got to Chelmsford as I walked to the Cathedral I was passed by a lady who smiled at me I thought what a lovely place, and it was. I got to the Cathedral and pop music was coming out of the cathedral, sitting on the ground I listened moved by the singing with tears in my eyes when the lady that had smiled at me came out. Her name was Rachel and her husband was on the stage playing a guitar, they were friends of the lead singer Nicky Rogers who writes all her own music. She said that there was a concert that night and then went back in to find out the time of the concert.
By now Nicky had stopped singing and the two girls, (I know they were only girls I’m oldish) Nicky came out and told me the concert was at 8pm and would I like to come along. I said I would try and she gave me a signed copy of her C.D. called Colour Scheme. I trotted off with my limp to get some food, chips in hand I was just walking past this man when he called me over, and his name was John. We talked, making a phone call he fixed me up with a bed in a hostel round the corner, I could wash my clothes there and get a shower and a bed for the night, my luck was in. We sat talking when a group of scagg heads came up. They started badgering me for the chips I was eating. I gave them to this lad, and then made my way to the Cathedral. I entered said hello and made a beeline to the back, I did know I looked like a tramp and thought if I was at the back I would not get in the way, and no one would notice me.
No chance the place filled very quickly and I was trapped with no escape a sea of people with god on their minds. What a night the music was great and so was the bishop, he did an escape routine, out of a straight jacket, the Cathedral rocked that night it was full, God was with the people of Chelmsford and they were alive. Nicky was excellent and I would recommend her C.D. to anyone thanks you for a great night and god bless you all. I spoke to the girls and their lads on the way out and made my way to the hostel.
The hostel was a no go; I could not find it so I camped in a park, just by a railway arch. It rained and I did not care I was happy, The next day I sat in the park with my foot in the boating lake it was still very painful. A young lad came up and started talking to me, we talked for some time. And he told me he wanted to be a nomad when he was grew up. It must have seemed like a good idea to him but I did point out a lot of bad point, and it was not going to be as easy as he thought, after we had talked for some time I made my way to the Cathedral. My visit to the Cathedral was good, I had my picture taken with a school party outside the Cathedral, I even let one little lad hold my walking stick, did my picture get pinned on a wall in a class room some where? God is alive in Chelmsford and I will go back one day, well done to the people that live there and thank you.
Next on the bus to Colchester when I got there I asked a woman where the Cathedral was. And she told me there was no Cathedral just an Abbey and that was in ruins so I got on the bus and went to Bury Saint Edmunds, once there I camped at the side of the football ground got an Indian curry and slept well. The next day when walking in the Abbey grounds a lady came up to me, she put a pound in my hand saying “get yourself a coffee its cold”. I did and sat in the sun watching the squirrels whilst I drank it well done that lady, and god bless you. The Cathedral was good and was still being built they were busy building the tower. Inside there was an exhibition on and I did like the artist work she was a nice lady I can't remember her name never mind.
I arrived at Ely that's known as the ship of the fen you can tell why when you see it standing proud on the horizon, After looking about the town I made my way to the river and put up my tent, in a field with cowpats. Very brave of me I’m frightened of anything bigger than me, then got some firewood, pot noodle stew was the order of the day and I was looking forward to it. Set up for the night, then I made my way to the phone box. I had to let my guardian angel know I was safe I did every night, on my return it was dark but that was alright I had every thing ready lit my fire and got a cup of tea on first. Water boiled and I made my tea then I heard a noise, oh no cows, all around me panic, what do I do run or what. I know I’ll make my stew. I poured the pot noodle in the water, now open the stew tin, still panic. Tin opener in hand opening stew still panic, I thought what if they can read, its beef stew panic, that’s OK, throw the tin in the river, I ate cold stew crouched in the front of my tent, the cows went away eventually.
I went to sleep, what a night, I can’t help it, the cows were bigger than me. I did get the can out of the river, as I don't leave any rubbish about. Ely was good I did meet some nice people one market trader gave me a badge for my hat, I have got 19 now. The Cathedral was being decked out for harvest festival, and looked very nice with all the produce across the front.
Next I had a cup of coffee outside a cafe, the reason I remembered it, was because ten percent of the taking, from the cafe, got donated to charity. A good way to help others and I did love the idea of a little bit of the cost going to a good cause
On to Peterborough and into hell, the Cathedral was o.k. But still smelt of smoke from a fire, which had done a lot of damage and was being put right. I was in time for even song and about four or five visitors sat down, we all walked out before the end. As you could not hear what was going on. Outside the people were rushing about shopping, no one was interested in much except spending. I went back to the bus station, walking past some yobs; one of them spat on the ground then the one next to him did the same. I thought, no respect, then two men started watching me, they were very interested in me and I could tell they were pickpockets, this was confirmed by the lady in the paper stand, she told me that drugies hung about the bus station.
I brought a cup of tea from her, but didn't take my eyes off them, they were looking for a victim and I was not going to be it. Goodbye Peterborough I hope the people wake up soon and god goes back, I will pray for you. I left, Lincoln was my next stop and I soon found a place for the night, on some wasteland. The next day the Cathedral was great, sat outside for about five hours, I talked to a work man it was him that told me about homeless people selling cobblestones to the tourists, there's no stopping some people. John was a homeless man I met there, he loved the Cathedral, was an alcoholic and had been in side, on and off. He did tell me when I was talking to him that he was trying to get off the drink, I asked him if he had got any one to help him in the cathedral, he told me no one took much notice of him in there.
Ask god to help next time you’re in their, go straight to the top, next time you’re in the Cathedral, just do it and see what happens. I had a job to get away from him after that and he said he would ask next time he was inside the Cathedral. A friend once told me that when you ask god for help he answered through a friend. I do hope John got the help he needed, It was strange hugging a complete stranger but he had become quite emotional by the time I left him god bless him.
On To York, what a lovely railway station, I arrived late and stayed up later 2 AM before I pitched my tent by some gravestones followed by a short night. The graves were victims of the plague, they had to be buried outside the city walls, I suppose it was nice for them to have some company for a change. The next day I was woken by some work men banging and crashing, they were putting up scaffolding on a shop opposite were I was camped. York is wonderful I met a lot of homeless people there, it has two hostels and a day centre that I was told about, very good. I came across a young girl and a bloke; Mick was his name he was a gypsy so he said, I did not know the girl’s name. She had been living on the streets and sleeping in the hospital grounds with her boy friend, for years, he was a drug user, heroin. She said he had over dosed and died, now she was on her own, still grieving and on the streets. I did see her walking in the opposite direction with her blanket later that night, all I could do was pray for her.
I had arranged to meet my guardian angle but had to do my praying first, so I entered the Cathedral and walked and prayed, lit my four candles all in about two hours before I went outside. By the way the four candles were lit for my brother, my sister, my dad, and one for the world and god just thought I would let you know. My guardian angle turned up on time, she crept up behind me and took me by surprise, we hugged, it felt good, everyone should hug more. She is my girlfriend Cherry, I was glad to see her and I dragged her into the Cathedral straightaway I needed to share it with her. We had a good day in York and must have walked around more than once, it was strange a lot of the homeless people I had met the night before came up to say hello, it was as if we had know them for years. Then back to Cherry's and a hot bath, and a bed not a sleeping bag. I will just add if you have ten spire minuts can you say a prayer for the homeless
STEFAN and CHERRY
Love and Light God Bless
STEFAN
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